How much solar do I need for van life?

Most van builds land between 200W and 600W of solar depending on daily energy use and travel location. A minimal setup with a 12V refrigerator, phone charging, and LED lighting typically needs 200–300W in a sun-belt region. Add a laptop, induction cooktop, or CPAP machine and 400–600W becomes more appropriate. The calculator uses your location's peak sun hours to size the array precisely for your actual appliance list.

How many batteries do I need for a van build?

A common starting point is 100–200Ah of LFP for a minimalist build and 200–400Ah for a full-time setup with a refrigerator, laptop, and moderate cooking. Size your battery bank to cover at least two cloudy days without recharging — multiply your daily Ah draw by 2, then divide by 0.85 to account for LFP depth of discharge. Staying within a 100Ah or 200Ah LFP battery keeps the weight manageable in a van where every kilogram counts.

What size inverter do I need for a campervan?

Most van lifers do well with a 1,000–2,000W pure sine wave inverter. A 1,000W unit handles a laptop, lighting, and phone charging simultaneously. If you plan to run a hairdryer (1,200–1,800W), induction cooktop (1,200–1,800W), or portable air conditioner (600–1,000W), size up to 2,000W. Always use a pure sine wave inverter — sensitive electronics like laptops and CPAP machines require clean AC power.

Should I use LFP or AGM batteries in my van?

LFP is almost always the better choice for van builds. The weight savings are substantial — a 200Ah LFP battery weighs roughly 25 kg versus 55–60 kg for equivalent AGM capacity. In a van where payload capacity and floor space are limited, that difference matters. LFP also charges faster from solar and alternator, tolerates partial-state-of-charge operation without damage, and lasts 5–10× longer. AGM makes sense only if the upfront cost difference is prohibitive.

How do I size a charge controller for a van solar system?

Divide your total panel wattage by your battery bank voltage (typically 12V or 24V) to get the maximum charge current. Add a 25% safety margin. For example, 400W of panels on a 12V system produces up to 33A — round up to a 40A MPPT controller. Use an MPPT controller rather than PWM; MPPT recovers 20–30% more energy, especially in partial shade or cold weather, and pays for the small price difference quickly.

Van Life Solar System Size Calculator

How much solar do I need for van life?: Most van builds land between 200W and 600W of solar depending on daily energy use and travel location. A minimal setup with a 12V refrigerator, phone charging, and LED lighting typically needs 200–300W in a sun-belt region. Add a laptop, induction cooktop, or CPAP machine and 400–600W becomes more appropriate. The calculator uses your location's peak sun hours to size the array precisely for your actual appliance list.
How many batteries do I need for a van build?: A common starting point is 100–200Ah of LFP for a minimalist build and 200–400Ah for a full-time setup with a refrigerator, laptop, and moderate cooking. Size your battery bank to cover at least two cloudy days without recharging — multiply your daily Ah draw by 2, then divide by 0.85 to account for LFP depth of discharge. Staying within a 100Ah or 200Ah LFP battery keeps the weight manageable in a van where every kilogram counts.
What size inverter do I need for a campervan?: Most van lifers do well with a 1,000–2,000W pure sine wave inverter. A 1,000W unit handles a laptop, lighting, and phone charging simultaneously. If you plan to run a hairdryer (1,200–1,800W), induction cooktop (1,200–1,800W), or portable air conditioner (600–1,000W), size up to 2,000W. Always use a pure sine wave inverter — sensitive electronics like laptops and CPAP machines require clean AC power.
Should I use LFP or AGM batteries in my van?: LFP is almost always the better choice for van builds. The weight savings are substantial — a 200Ah LFP battery weighs roughly 25 kg versus 55–60 kg for equivalent AGM capacity. In a van where payload capacity and floor space are limited, that difference matters. LFP also charges faster from solar and alternator, tolerates partial-state-of-charge operation without damage, and lasts 5–10× longer. AGM makes sense only if the upfront cost difference is prohibitive.
How do I size a charge controller for a van solar system?: Divide your total panel wattage by your battery bank voltage (typically 12V or 24V) to get the maximum charge current. Add a 25% safety margin. For example, 400W of panels on a 12V system produces up to 33A — round up to a 40A MPPT controller. Use an MPPT controller rather than PWM; MPPT recovers 20–30% more energy, especially in partial shade or cold weather, and pays for the small price difference quickly.

Methodology and source note

PowerSizing calculators use shared formulas, documented assumptions, and current planning inputs that are summarized on the methodology page. Use these tools for first-pass planning, comparison, and sanity checks, then confirm local code, pricing, utility tariff, and installer specifics before you buy equipment.

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Methodology and source note